The Claire Shaeffer Simple Autumn Wrap

With Autumn well on the way, sewing educator Claire Shaeffer has decided, for her first contribution, to showcase something both beginner and advanced sewers can enjoy making! The simple autumn wrap. Both classic and elegant, these wraps can be enjoyed for seasons to come. Claire made the below wraps using our fabrics L30475 and Z8146.

Follow her instructions below to make your own.

This wrap is easy to make, comfortable to wear, and requires only one metre (1 1/8 yd.) of fabric. A neutral color is always a good choice or you might prefer to coordinate the wrap with a matching skirt.

Choose a fabric you like. Widths between 133cm and 137 cm are generally best, but the fabric can be as wide as 152cm or as narrow as 125cm. Use cotton thread (size 50) or lightweight embroidery thread (size 60) if you want the thread to be less noticeable.

A universal (H) needle size 70/10 or 80/12 is a good choice for fabrics that do not have metallic threads, sequins, or slubs. For these fabrics, a denim (H ) or microtext (HM) needle with a sharp point is better.

1. Trim away the selvage edges along a warp yarn.
Hint: To prevent larger decorative yarns from unravelling, fuse a 15 mm (5/8”) strip of lightweight fusible interfacing to the cut edges. The warp yarns on my wraps didn’t ravel badly so I used the fusible only on the hem edges.
2. With the right sides together, fold the fabric in half on the crosswise grain.
3. Pin the sides together, beginning 23 cm (9”) below the fold to leave an unstitched section between the fold and first pin for the armholes.
4. Beginning at the first pin, stitch the side seam with a 25mm (1”) seam. Repeat to stitch the remaining seam.
Hint: Knot the thread ends and use a calyx-eyed needle with an open end to hide the threads.
5. Trim the hem edge so the wrap measures 50 cm (19.5 inch) from the fold.
Hint: Fuse a narrow strip of lightweight interfacing to the edge of the hem if the fabric ravels badly.
6. At the armholes, fold 25mm (1”) to the wrong side; baste.
7. Press the underarm seams open; then press the seam allowances flat around the armholes.
8. Baste the cut edges of the seams flat to prevent the underlayer from creeping.
9. Set the machine to zigzag W,4-L,2. Check to be sure you have a full bobbin.
10. Beginning at the hem with the wrong side up, position the seam under the presser foot so the needle will stitch off the seam on the left side and the full zigzag will be at the edge of the seam allowance.
11. Stitch the seam, continue around the armhole and back to the hem edge. Repeat to stitch the remaining seam and armhole.
12. Fold and baste a 25 mm (1”) hem in place. Press.
Hint: I used two rows of basting on the hem to control the underlayer creep.
13. With the wrong side up, position the hem under the foot as you did for the seam; and zigzag (W,4-L,2) it in place.
14. Press the wrap and turn it right side out.
15. For a smoother fit over the shoulders, make an inverted pleat at center back.
16. To make the pleat, pin-mark the center back on one hem. If the fabric has a one-way design, place the pleat on the upper hem.
17. Fold the wrap right sides together; mark the stitching line 5 cm (2”) away. Stitch a 25 mm (1”) seam through the hem.
18. Baste an inverted pleat in place,
I used the extra long basting stitch on my machine to baste the top and bottom of the pleat.
19. Stitch a triangle over the short seam.
Hint: I used the zipper foot to edgestitch the top of the triangle, and hid the thread ends with my calyx eyed needle. Then I changed to the all-purpose zigzag foot to stitch the sides of the triangle.
20. With the wrong side up, sew the Linton label on the back of the pleat. If there is no pleat, sew it on one side seam near the armhole.
21. Press your wrap.
22. Voila! Your wrap is finished and ready to enjoy.